Ion Olaru - Instants of Life

27 May 2021

Intrarea liberă / Free entrance

Retroversible Exhibition 08 June 2021
An exceptional exhibition opens for visits in the Rotunda and in the Foyer of the NTB Small Hall. On Tuesday, June 8th, 2021, starting at 6.30 pm, we invite you to  the Rotonda and in the Foyer of the NTB Small Hall to the opening of the Retroversible exhibition of the UNArte Fashion Department. A superb tribute exhibition, dedicated to the memory of an exceptional personality, art historian and critic Adina Nanu, an exhibition - demonstration of exemplary artistic pedagogy, created by the UNArte Fashion Department on the 50th anniversary of its founding. "The Retroversible exhibition is, first of all, a desperate cry to find a space for Adina Nanu's costume collection. It is, then, an opportunity to show the connection between this collection of old clothes with the most topical productions of future fashion designers in Romania. The partnership between the Collection and UNArte is, in fact, an old relationship, since the establishment of the Fashion Department, which has always functioned in all the 50 years that UnArte celebrates this year (1971-2021) ”. Presented by the historian Georgeta Filitti PhD and Univ. Prof. Unda Popp PhD, Fashion Department, UNArte (curator of the exhibition). The opening will take place in the presence of the UNArte rector, Univ. Prof. Cătălin Bălescu PhD and Ion Caramitru, NTB manager. Unda Popp, some explanations about the exhibition: The exhibitiondeparts from the costumes of the collection, only 20 outfits, chosen from three distinct moments (1900s, 1920s and 1960s) and reaches the current unconventional experiments made by students. In the twentieth century, democratization attenuated differences in image between people. Gradually, the clothes no longer signaled the nationality, religion and occupation, the social status was no longer communicated through the costume image and the fortune was no longer displayed (the display of expensive jewelry and fur clothes are now considered in bad taste), then the clothes erased as much as possible, age differences. Today, the last barrier is being raised, the one between the masculine and the feminine gender. The disappearance of the gender marking by the costume was the starting point of the workshop themes (of MA students and PhD students coordinated by Unda Popp) exhibited in the second room (the foyer of the NTB Small Hall). SOS (Sexi Office Suits) and Hermes and Aphrodite. It started from the fact that from the middle of the 19th century, men entered the uniform of the respectable man, which has remained largely unchanged even today. The frock coat / tuxedo / tailcoat are mandatory pieces in the men's wardrobe. (In Romania, communism broke the tradition and brutally imposed the workers' overalls). Then, the fashion of the last years of the twentieth century underlined the rise of women in the professional world still dominated by men. Women's clothes try to copy men's clothes, reminiscent of the story of St. George, who, in order to defeat the dragon, wore a shirt with scales (like the skin of a dragon). Women's suits for office work are still made of the same garments as those of men in large corporations, copying both the shape and colour of these garments. For the SOS theme, students cut on the back of a used men's jacket a neckline as provocative as possible, using inserts with unconventional materials. Recycling and reuse of clothes were considered. For the theme Hermes and Aphrodite, the students had to create an outfit half masculine, half feminine, observing the current convention (the man wears a suit with pants and the woman a dress). The geometric shape of the silhouettes was established (he triangle with the base up - she triangle with the base down), thus marking the differences still allowed today between the two constitutional types, he with broad shoulders and she with a thin waist. Conclusion: What is left for the garment to communicate is the personality and fantasy of the individual and possibly the mood. This requires minimal cultural landmarks, an educated taste and mastery of the means to transpose into the image the desired ideas and, last but not least, the sense of humour. P.S. Also in the second room are exhibited the works of PhD student Mihaela Grădinaru, who adapts the same men's clothes for the stage. In the gallery on the foyer floor, works from the PhD researches of the young teachers are exhibited: Oana Roșca, Alina Gurguță and Antoaneta Tică. Short films will be displayed in both spaces. Public access is made from Carol Blvd., daily between 11.00 - 18.00. Wearing a mask inside the exhibition space is mandatory. Translated by Simona Nichiteanu
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